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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.